Sabari malai AyyappaTemple
The
Sabarimala AyyappaTemple
The
Ayyappa temple at Sabarimala is one of the few Hindu temples in India
that is open to all faiths. Here, the emphasis is on secularism and
communal harmony. Sabarimala upholds the values of equality,
fraternity and also the oneness of the human soul; all men,
irrespective of class, creed or race are equal before Lord Ayyappan
and seemingly, to drive home this fact, the pilgrims thronging the
temple complex address one another as ‘Ayyappa Swami.’
Legend
has it that the Ayyappa temple at Sabarimala is laid out in
accordance with the instructions of the Lord himself. Consequently,
Malikappurathamma is on the left of the Sannidhanam, and the Lord’s
aides, Vavar and Kadutha stand vigil at the foot of the ‘pathinettu
thrippadi’ the most significant 18 steps in Hinduism, leading to
the ‘sanctum sanctorum.’
As Lord Ayyappan was raised by
the King of Pandalam as his son, the temple at Sabarimala is looked
upon as part of the Raja’s domain. And pilgrims are expected to
obtain his permission before proceeding to Sabarimala. One of the
King’s representatives sits on a raised platform with the royal
insignia at the base of Neelimala. The Ayyappa devotees offer him a
token sum and receive vibhuthi in return. The 3km ascent up the
Neelimala is the steepest and the most difficult in the whole
pilgrimage.
En route to Sabarimala, the pilgrims visit Erumeli
Sree Dharma Shastha Temple to hold ‘Petta Thullal’ as well as
Vavur’s mosque, also at Erumeli. To enter the temple complex at
Sabarimala, the devotees have to climb the 18 steps or the
‘pathinettu padikal’; when compared to other prominent temples in
Kerala like Guruvayoor, the shrine atop Sabarimala is relatively
small.
The temple stands on a plateau, over 40 feet high and
offers spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and the valleys
below. Steeped in antiquity, it was rebuilt after a massive fire in
1950. Now, the complex on Sabarimala comprises a sanctum sanctorum
bearing a copper-plated roof with four golden finials at the top, two
mandapams, the belikalpura housing the altar, and the ‘kodimaram’
or the flag staff.
The Ayyappa idol within the Sannidhanam and
worshipped by millions, was originally carved out of stone, however
the current image of the deity is a beautiful idol of Ayyappan in
panchaloha, an amalgam five metals and about one and a half feet
tall.
Ganapathi
Kovil: Lord
Ganapathi sits south-west of the main temple; the Ganapathi idol at
Sabarimala is commonly referred to as Kannimula Ganapathi. And one of
the special offerings to this deity is ‘Ganapathi
homam.’
Homakundam:
In
the bygone days, a large homakundam or a sacred pit burned constantly
in front of the Sannidhanam. The flames were fed by the
coconuts/neithenga thrown in by pilgrims, after offering the ghee
within them to Lord Ayyappan. It is held that as the coconuts burn in
the sacrificial fire, the pilgrims undergo a ritualistic cleansing,
both of the spirit and the body. Owing to the deluge of devotees each
year, the Homakundam has been moved to a spot beneath the
temple.
Bhasmakkulam:
The
shrine of Malikappurathama is about 100 metres away from the
Sannidhanam. Bhasmakkulam/ Ash tank is situated between these two
holy spots. Pilgrims braving the arduous trip to Sabarimala take a
tip in the sacred waters of this tank for spiritual purification and
also in memory of Tapaswini Sabari who entered a pyre to end her
mortal life. Sabarimala is named after her. Bhasmakkulam is
repeatedly drained and filled with fresh water, on account of the
millions who bathe in it.
Malikappurathamma:
This
small temple on a hillock houses the shrines of Devi (Malanada
Bhagavathi) and Kaduthaswamy in addition to a trident and a lamp.
Devotees offer special pujas and coconuts which contrary to common
practice, are not broken, but just rolled onto the ground. The door
of the shrine always remains closed and other offerings presented
include betel leaves, turmeric powder, silk cloth, saffron and money.
Kanikka, gun shots and lighted lamps are the offered by the
worshipper to propitiate Malanada Bhagavathi.
The shrines of
Nagaraja (the king of snakes) and Nagayakshi (Snake goddess) are on
the right side of the temple of Malikappurathamma. Special pujas
involving sarppa paattu are offered here to appease the snakes and
protect devotees from the harmful effects of
snakebites.
Kaduthaswamy
and Karuppaswamy stand
at the bottom of the Pathinettampadi (18 steps) and are the guardians
of the Sannidhanam. They are dwarapalakas, ensuring that the holy
steps are not polluted by pilgrims who do not undergo the rigors of
the 41-day abstinence and celibacy. Also they safeguard the pious
from the dark spirits of the surrounding forests.
It is held
that Kadutha was a valiant warrior who helped Pandalamraja (Lord
Ayyappan's foster father) beat his archenemy Udayanan. Soon
afterwards, Kadutha accompanied the Raja to Sabarimala to reconstruct
the Ayyappa temple and eventually grew so attached to the Lord that
he spent his remaining days in the temple and the adjoining
woods.
Adjacent to the Pathinettupadi is the shrine of
Vavurswami, who is believed to have been a close associate of Lord
Ayyappan. Vavur was a Muslim and several versions of his association
with Ayyappan persist. Originally a warrior, Vavur was defeated and
subdued by Ayyappan; later he became of one of the closest confidants
of the Lord. It is widely believed that Ayyappan himself instructed
Pandalamraja to build a mosque for Vavur at Erumeli and a shrine at
Sabarimala.
The
Sacred 18 steps : The
original 18 steps at Sabarimala were granite blocks, five or six feet
wide. However, they were so badly damaged by pilgrims who constantly
broke coconuts on them that Travancore Devasom, the current governing
body of the temple covered them with panchaloha after a lengthy
Devaprashanam. The renovation work was completed in November, 1985
and now the holy steps are covered in gold.
Several myths
persist regarding the significance of the Pathinettu thripadikal or
the 18 holy steps, but almost all of them stress the importance of
the number, 18. According to a popular belief, the first 5 steps
signify the five indriyas or the senses (eyes, ears, nose, tongue and
skin), the following 8 the ragas (tatwa, kama, krodha, moha, lobha,
madha, matsraya, and ahamkara), the next 3 the gunas (satwa, rajas
and thamas) followed by vidya and avidya. Climbing these would take
the devotee closer to self-realisation. The act of crossing the 18
steps is so sacred that nobody can mount them without undertaking the
rigorous 41 day fast and carrying the irumudi. It is also widely
assumed that the pathinettu padikal symbolize the 18 puranas; others
believe that they connote the 18 weapons with which Lord Ayyappan
obliterated evil.
An Ayyappa devotee crosses the Pathinettaam
padi only twice during his sojourn on Sabarimala - for entering the
temple and to go downhill. Before ascending or descending the steps,
pilgrims break coconut as an offering to the steps. One needs to have
the sacred Irumudi on head while going up or down the 18 steps and
while descending the steps the devotees climb down backwards facing
the sanctum sanctorum.
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